4-8-0 Camelback Details

Wheel Thickening Part 1

The four original drive wheels from the parts engine had been machined to a thickness very close to the minimum of 0.750 inch. The four castings I purchased cleaned up at 0.900 +/-0.005 inch. I decided to bolt and epoxy a plate onto the front of the thin wheels and machine them to match the 0.900 thick wheels. Luckily, I found 1/4 inch thick washers – 7 inch OD x 4-1/2 inch ID – made of A36, on Ebay for only $7 a piece. They appear to have been cut out of flat plate with a laser.

Marking the center line of the bolt circle.

I mounted one of the thin wheels on a face plate on my lathe and indicated it to less than 0.005 inches, circular runout. I took a light face cut and marked the center of the face, turning the face plate by hand. The diameter of the bolt circle measured 6-7/16 inches.

Marking the center line on the face plate.

I then marked the face plate without moving the tool in or out. Finally, I carefully marked the same line on one of the washers.

Marking the center line on a part.

There are probably 1,001 ways to lay out a bolt circle on a part. This is how I did it.

Marking the center of 2 holes, 180 degrees apart.

The first step was to use a center gauge on a combination square to mark 2 holes 180 degrees apart. I then consulted Machinery’s handbook for the formulas I needed to find the rest of the holes.

Using trigonometry to find the length of chords for 8 holes.
Marking 4 holes 90 degrees apart.

Once I determined the length of the chord for the 2 holes 90 degrees to the first two, I used calipers and dividers to carefully mark the locations. I then calculated the length of the shorter chord for the holes at 45 degrees. I carefully center punched the locations of all 8 equally spaced holes.

Drilling all 4 parts.

I used a center drill and then a Number 35 tap drill for 6-32 threads. I placed one part on the faceplate, lining up the holes with the scribed circular line. I clamped the part in place and match drilled the 8 holes. I put a small mark next to one hole and a corresponding mark on the faceplate, in case the holes were not really equally spaced. I tapped the faceplate for 6-32 threads and then drilled out the holes in the parts with a Number 26 clearance drill. The holes DID come out equally spaced!

Four parts drilled.

There is a lot of extra material on the ID of these washers. I cut a trepan 1/8 inch deep on both sides of the parts mounted on the faceplate.

Cutting the trepan.
The groove before breaking the center out.
Washer ready to be applied to the wheel. (Scrap center on left)

One thought on “Wheel Thickening Part 1

Leave a comment